Sunday, November 15, 2015

Life on the Home Front

     Here in little Salamanca I am living with a lovely host family. We live in the Barrio del Oeste (West Neighborhood), which is a super nifty place, because a couple years ago they started a project where young artists can paint the garage doors. It is sort of like a walking outdoor art gallery. We personally live near the giant green dinosaur. Near the central fountain there are trees and bikes covered in crocheted yarn, etc... super creative hippie stuff like that.
     Other than blabbing about the beautiful garage doors in the neighborhood (they are seriously the coolest garage doors you will ever see), I should tell you a bit about our actual house. Spaniards don't spend much time in their houses, so nothing too exciting happens here, but we do always have a big family lunch together. Me and another student from my program live with our host mom, Pilar. She has a son and daughter both in their twenties who live with their dad (though the son spends most of the year working elsewhere). They all come over for lunch and we tend to share our individual plans for the afternoon whilst watching the actual news on TV. Lots of news. Overall, we become very well informed citizens over lunch.
    Only downside of lunch is that it's at 2:00pm at the earliest, which is pretty early for Spanish standards. The meal schedule in Spain is delayed about 2-3 hours and becomes increasingly delayed as the day goes on. Spaniards don't really start functioning till 9am at the earliest. Lunch happens anywhere between 2-4pm. Dinner in our house is at 9pm, but that's pretty early for Spain, as some people don't eat until 10:30 or 11:00pm. I have developed a new habit of eating chocolate chip greek yogurt for dessert with every meal. I tell myself it's healthy because it's yogurt. Yogurt or fruit is the typical dessert here (despite the impression I've given with my addiction to ice cream shops and bakeries).
     Then there is Jaco. An extremely tiny Yorkshire terrier who enjoys barking, peeing around the house, and running in circles. Overall, a friendly little dude. He thinks his reflection is another dog, but... at least he's cute. He also, thankfully, is very Spanish in his sleeping habits, i.e. he knows how to sleep in like a champ.
     My host mom is very good at putting up with my creative grammar and vocabulary. Sometimes I say things that apparently are non-existent and she gets quite a kick out of it, so much so that she starts incorporating my made-up words into the family lexicon. I tell her that's dangerous because then I will keep thinking they are words! She finally informed me the other day that I'd been calling the trashcan the garbage man. To my credit, in Latin America the word for garbage man can also mean trashcan, but I guess that is definitely not the case here. Contrary to the implications of my Spanish, there is indeed not a little garbage man living under our sink.

Cristina, Me, Tiana, Pilar

Our neighborhood 

The Plaza Mayor at Christmas time

Saturday, November 14, 2015

Salamanca Update

     Clearly my blog has been a tad dormant since the Camino... nevertheless, I've been up to quite a bit during my Spanish semester.  I'm fully settled into the University life here in Salamanca. I tend to fill my time with classes, consuming lots of chocolate and other sweets, and visiting some other Spanish cities. I do other things of course, but I'd say my three principal activities can be summed up to school, eating (sweets) and traveling.
     I have classes Monday thru Friday, practically all day, but when I'm not in class I'm usually visiting the Croissantería París. As is implied in the name, it is a small bakery where you can get croissants filled with every sort of sugary goodness, from milk chocolate and bananas to raspberry and cheese filling. They also have savory ones with ham and goat cheese. Now that it is autumn, the ice cream options are slightly more limited, but prior to the arrival of fall, I succeeded in trying every ice cream and frozen yogurt place in or near the Plaza Mayor. With such awkward gaps of time between classes as well as the abundance of cafés and bakeries here, it is quite easy to come to love snacking in Spain. And I haven't even gotten to talking about tapas! I mostly eat at home, but when I go out or am traveling, I enjoy the Spanish cuisine of tapas. Around just about every corner is a bar with a unique selection of tapas (basically little appetizer items) to pick from. If you go up thinking you'll just order wine, you'll also ending up ordering a tapa, for me anything with goat cheese. And vice versa, if you go up just to order a tapa, you naturally end up ordering a drink well. All in all, the Spaniards have mastered art of the evening drinking and snacking outing, which I of course supplement with ice cream.
     Other than indulging in pastries, ice cream and goat cheese, I attempt to bit by bit master the ins and outs of Spanish grammar. I have 6 classes all in Spanish, which has turned out to be much easier than expected. I still have an exceedingly annoying amount of work, but the fact that it's in Spanish doesn't seem to make it too much worse. I have 2 university spanish linguistics classes. My favorite is definitely Spanish phonetics and phonology, because I'm a proud linguistics nerd. For that class, I actually have one professor that teaches us phonology and another professor that teaches us phonology. One of them is an older man who is quite hilarious but also hard to understand because he has a very low gruff voice and use a lot of colloquial expressions. The other professor is a very graceful young woman with the most mellifluous voice ever. In my other Spanish linguistics class, which is sort of a mix of Spanish syntactic theory and general linguistics, I was quickly confronted with one of the many cultural differences between university in Spain and university in the US. Spanish students have the tendency to maintain a dull roar during most of the class. To put it lightly, in addition to attempting to grasp the material of the class, I am learning to separate the professor's voice from the Spanish chitter chatter and ideally tune out the latter. In that class, I also had the "opportunity" (or misfortune, depending on your attitude) to give a presentation in front of the whole class. The topic being one with lots of linguistic terminology, having never given a presentation in Spanish and not being a native speaker, let's be real, I don't think I've ever been so nervous in my whole life. It was like 10 times more nerve-wracking than the SAT's, but just like the SAT's I totally survived and am quite proud of myself.
     Despite having class Monday through Friday, I have been able to travel a bit in Spain, though after the Camino, I was also quite content to stay in one place for a little while. I travelled to Barcelona one weekend and had the most fantastic time ever! Barcelona is an amazing city with so many crazy cool Gaudí buildings, food, more food, beach, more food and nice people. I was also lucky to have a super fun guide and friend to show me around, Susana. We managed to squeeze as much as possible into one weekend and even made it all the way to Figueres to see the Dalí Museum (side note: best museum in the whole world) and be total Dalí nerds. I will update more about Barcelona later!
   I also made a day trip to Valladolid, a city just an hour from Salamanca. Definitely NOT touristy, but my professor from Grinnell is from there and I wanted to see where she's from. Even better yet, she happens to be there this semester, so she showed me around her city. I also visited the science museum, perhaps for a slightly younger audience, but it was super cool. I went to the museum at 2:00pm, which might seem trivial, however, it meant I had the ENTIRE museum to myself. 2:00pm is the commencement of lunch + siesta in Spain, everyone (except the people who work in restaurants) closes shop and goes home (or occasionally out) to eat. Thus, the American tourist (me) had the entire museum to herself! Valladolid isn't famous for too much, but once again, they did not fail me with their food... amongst my exploring I of course made it to a chocolate shop and bakery. They also have PEACOCKS in the park! I tried to contain my excitement but wow peacocks are so cool. Overall, a lovely day with my professor, peacocks, museums and chocolate.
      Near the beginning of the semester, my program took us on a trip to Sevilla and Granada. Sevilla wasn't too exciting because I'd lived there before, however, it was a grand time with friends from the program. Me, Sylvia, and Celia rowed a rowboat around the little river around the Plaza de España. We did not tip over and we only hit two other people's boats. We managed to find amazing (and amazingly expensive, but totally worth it) baklava and dried fruit. In Granada, we visited the world famous Alhambra, which is a gigantic palace, village, fortress, garden, etc.... from the Muslim kings in Spain from before the Catholics took over in 1492. It is of course absolutely gorgeous and filled with amazingly intricate arabic designs and writing.
   A couple weeks ago, I think, time is a little hard to keep track of here, Sylvia, Celia, Sara and I decided to take our rowboat adventure skills to the mountains of Salamanca. We took a trip to Béjar, a pretty boring little town with a weird sounding name that is nestled in a beautiful mountain range. We did some fall hiking and got to see an amazing sunset, chestnut covered paths, moss covered rocks and the leaves changing color to bright orange. We spent Halloween in Candelario, a tiny town famous for being the second prettiest town in Spain. We went for a morning hike and made friends with a very fuzzy and handsome donkey and were blessed with a beautiful rainbow. Though it's hard to get any better than donkeys and rainbows, we also went to a town event which consisted of free chestnuts and sangria for everyone. It was a nice halloween treat to have "chestnuts roasting on an open fire."
    Okay, I think I've written enough for this to be getting a bit long for a blog post. Ideally, I'll improve my blogging skills and there'll be more posts to come! Sending you all love and laughter from Spain, Briannah.

Salamanca: View of the linguistics department from the cathedral tower

Salamanca: 21st Birthday with Anika, Áine, and Sara

Barcelona

Valladolid


Béjar and Candelario

Dad visits and we take a trip to La Alberca




Sunday, September 6, 2015

28 August 2015 Madrid, Calle Iquitos

I went to Calle de Iquitos today! Least touristy place ever. Just suburban apartments, but I was so excited. I'm also quite proud of myself for finding it. I took some pictures for Jaime, Hermico, Ema and Ligia. I hope that one day I can show them the picture.

27 August 2015 Goodbye Camino

Yesterday, me, Steffie, Wouter and his mom and her boyfriend drove to Fisterra (the 'end of the earth,' i.e. the coast). The weather was so bad. It was so hard to say goodbye to everyone. Then, I got so lost walking back from the bus station (Steffi and I took the bus back from Fisterra). I was just sprinting around some residential area in the rain with the flu. I asked some woman (the only one I'd seen) where the cathedral was. Probably the mix of rain, tears, and congestion helped, but she was so nice and took me under her umbrella and walked me to where I could see it. By the time I got to my albergue it was 7:45pm.
Today, I flew from Santiago to Madrid and it was a much smoother day than yesterday. I am so happy with my hotel. Wow it is so great. I miss my camilia though (Camilia = a blend of camino + familia).


25 August 2015 Santiago

Compostelas at 8am. Pilgrim mass at 12. Botefumeiro was really cool. Gahhh I'm so sick :(.

24 August 2014 Stage 33: O'Pedrouzo - Santiago

Santiago!!! I made it to Santiago. Had a busy afternoon shopping and then went out to dinner and it's 10:40pm and I haven't even showered. Feeling a little lost with no more yellow arrows, but excited for all to come.
Morning break (11k to go)

Monte de Gozo (5k to go)

0.5k to go


0k to go


23 August 2015 Stage 32: Ribadiso - O'Pedrouzo

Just one more day left! 19k! I'm actually so impressed, proud, and surprised that I've made it this far. And never did I think I would be eating omelettes and hamburgers (things I used to hate). There are so many turegrinos now that is really hard not to be bitter and annoyed (turegrinos = turista + peregrino, the Spanish words for tourist and pilgrim). I respect and admire that they are spending their vacation walking, but it just changes the whole vibe of the Camino. Dinner time!! Wow, I just ate a whole Hawaiian pizza, half an order of fries, a coffee flan, then I went to a bakery and ate a bizcocho con crema.

22 August 2015 Stage 31: Palas de Rei - Ribadiso

Too dark to write. Had a nice time playing cards with Marta, Helena (two sisters from Barcelona) and Wouter. I even had a hamburger for dinner!

21 August 2015 Stage 30: Portomarín - Palas de Rei

Kind of a long day, but a nice one other than the tourist pilgrims, which kind of ruin the peace of the Camino.

20 August 2015 Stage 29: Sarria - Portomarín

I just had another Italian pizza! Today was good. I had a very nice cheese omelette for 2nd breakfast. Took some cowfies of course (selfies with cows). There are so many "pilgrims" now. You really have to make reservations because albergues fill up really fast. The municipal ones don't take reservations, but it's ricky to count on them not being full. I think I will miss the Camino when it's over, but I'm also excited to, you know, have toilet paper and less than 10 kilos on my back. Oh my gosh and we saw an ostrich today. I guess some Galician likes ostrich eggs or has a funny pet.


19 August 2015 Stage 28: Triacastela - Sarria

I just had the most amazing food at an Italian restaurant. Pineapple and ham pizza and panna cotta. I am so full I can barely move, but wow it was the best foot I've had in Spain.

18 August 2015 Stage 27: O'Cebreiro - Triacastela

Today was so lovely. Steffi and I slept till 7 and then ate breakfast in bed. Leaving O'Cebreiro was amazing because the clouds were in all the valleys. The mountain tops looked like islands in the sky. I didn't realize that Gallego is also spelled different than Spanish! It kind of sounds like a mix of Italian and Spanish. I practiced saying Fröhliche Weihnachten in German all day. We made pesto pasta for dinner. And now I can put on my Spanish sweatsuit which I love. Did I mention how much I love my sweatsuit? Camino Quote (me to Steffi while I was walking and trying to think of Santa's reindeer): "You know it's a good day when you can remember all your reindeer" (Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Donner, Blitzen, and Rudolph).

17 August 2015 Stage 26: Villafranca - O'Cebriero

Me, Wouter, Timi and Steffi walked together, but then I was walking ahead and somehow got really far ahead. I stopped at a truck stop gas station to pee and thought they'd passed when I was inside, so I started walking really fast and then stopped in Ambas Mesetas. I asked Carlos, who was sitting at the café there, if Timi had passed by him and he said no. Then I was really really confused. I waited there for a while and then Steffi came and told me Wouter was sick so he and Timi stopped walking. Steffi and I kept walking and in Herrerías decided to do the horse ride to O'Cebriero. It was us and the Canadian couple. My horse was named Morita. She was very nice but really wanted to snack. Riding a horse with a backpacking backpack on was interesting. And wow does my butt hurt! I am glad I rode the horses, but I am definitely still not great with horses. I got more comfortable as we went on, but it was still stressful. The views were beautiful though. Steffi and I have a hostel here. We went to the store and just bought random things and ate in our room. Now we're eating cookies in bed. We have the cutest little windows, which I think Jacquelyne would like.




16 August 2015 Stage 25: Ponferrada - Villafranca

Today we met up again with Timi! Me, Steffi, and Timi walked together. We stopped for so many breaks. We stopped at one albergue in Pieros for crepes and smoothies. When we arrived in Villafranca, there was Wouter! We settled in to the albergue and then went to dinner. I had an entire hawaiian pizza with no tomato sauce and it was great. The others got menú del día, so Wouter gave me his ice cake. I also learned from Steffi that the proper word for little pieces of paper in German is Schnipsel (NOT schnidel).

15 August 2015 Stage 24.5: Ponferrada Rest Day

Slept till 11:07! Greatest rest day ever. Only downside was that all stores were closed because of Asunción. Spain has a holiday or party at least 3 times a week.

14 August 2015 Stage 24: Rabanal - Molinaseca - Ponferrada

Today was freezing cold windy rainy etc. It felt like clouds were blowing in my face. Wouter and I took like 6 breaks. We met up with Stephanie at one of our breaks. My stomach was bad again so they were so nice and for the the last part Stephanie carried my bag and Wouter carried her bag. We made it to Molinaseca and were going to stay in a hostel there, but there was going to be a huge party and no doctor the next day because of the party, so we took a taxi to Ponferrada. The 3 of us are staying at Hostal San Miguel. I went shopping!!! The closest stores to here were like actual sporty clothes not hiking clothes. I bought a sweatsuit from one store and a sports bra from another. We then did laundry at a self-service laundry place. Longest 31 minutes. Haha we literally just sat there watching our clothes wash. I learned that I can run up 3 flights of stairs and not be out of breath.

Foncebadón

Foncebabear

Cruz de Ferro 


Manjarín (that's basically the whole town) 

Wouter with his new friend in Manjarín

13 August 2015 Stage 23: Astorga - Rabanal

It's cold. I'm tired. My stomach is upset again. On the bright side, Wouter and I cooked! Pasta with pesto and green onion and red pepper. I still can't believe that yesterday 3 different people didn't think I was American. American lady thought I was Spanish, even after I spoke Standard American English to her. A German in the kitchen thought I was German because I sounded like a German who'd studied for a year in America. Then, the woman from Denmark with an Aussie accent, Tanya, said the first 30 seconds I spoke she didn't think I was fluent. Haha also last night was hilarious when Deb, Aussie woman, was trying to tell this Frenchman that his food wasn't done because the eggs were too liquidy. She did this hilarious wiggle dance to explain. Today was beautiful rainbow day! The first 3 hours was just walking right towards the most beautiful complete rainbow I'd ever seen.

12 August 2015 Stage 22: San Martín - Astorga

Astorga has an amazing Gaudí palace. It looks like an oil pastel painting or something. Another shitty day of walking but it ended well. The albergue had soap next to the wash basins AND the water pressure in the shower AND amazing 15€ massage. Wouter walked 50k today! Wow. I can't believe it. I miss Jacquelyne who had to stop in León. I think I've learned that I need silliness in my day.


11 August 2015 Stage 21: León - San Martín

The walk today was bleh. First suburbs of León, then along the highway the whole way. Never in my life did I think I'd walk next to a highway all day. I'm staying at an albergue in San Martín called Vieira. Helen, Hannah, and Bianca are also here. There's a swimming pool!!! After swimming and hanging out with Hannah and Bianca, I had lunch. It was absolutely amazing. Lentil soup, bread, salad (with actually fresh lettuce and veggies), and pork with potatoes & grilled zucchini. I didn't really like the pork, but I think that's just because I was full and I don't really like pork. Today I learned how nice it is just to eat and not do other things while you eat. I brought my phone, guidebook, and journal with me to lunch and then realized how nice it was just to do nothing other than sit and eat as slowly as you want and look at the view (of the high way N-120, because guess what? The hostel is on the side of the highway I spent the day walking along :) ). I miss Jacquelyne, Timi, and Wouter, because I can be so silly with them. I'm exhausted from getting up so early everyday, so I'm going to rest now.


10 August 2015 Stage 20: Mansilla de las Mulas - León

Walked to León today. In the morning, me, Timi, Jacquelyne, and Wouter made up nicknames. Timi is Camino Whisperer. Jacquelyne is Yogi. I am Apple. Wouter is Speedy GonHolland. Later we started walking with Guido, Helen, and Zoltan (a Hungarian we just met). We are staying in an awesome hostel. It is actually only open in summer because it is the university dorms for Miguel de Unamuno. Me, Jacquelyne, and Wouter have a triple with a bathroom! We went out for a nice lunch. The cathedral here is gorgeous. I think I like León better than Pamplona and Burgos. Also, wow sunscreen is so freaking expensive in Spain. For being such a sunny country you'd think that it would have reasonably priced sunscreen.


9 August 2015 Stage 19: Bencianos - Mansilla de las Mulas

Last night at the communal dinner the hospitalera asked for a translator to English, French, and Italian. I volunteered to translate to English. The first part was just about how the dinner was thanks to yesterday's pilgrims' donations. The second part was about how we are going to bless the meal with a rap song. Then we did the 'we will rock you' rhythm on the tables and did a rap blessing!
Today was very monotonous but very nice. I am in a room with Jacquelyne, Timi, Wouter, and a person from Slovenia and someone from Spain. We are all so silly. Sometimes living in tight quarters can have its perks, i.e. laughter is twice as contagious. I had dinner for the first time in 6 days! Oats with milk and bread with pesto.


8 August 2015 Stage 18: Terradillos - Bencianos

Early 5:30 departure from Terradillos, but a lovely walk in the dark. We stopped in Sahagún and found a café and supermarket. The aisles in the supermarket in Spain are so narrow and it is so crowded, so 5 of us walking around with backpacks on was a scene. We decided to walk along the main road towards Bencianos and El Burgo Ranero (instead of the alternative route). We are staying in Bencianos at the parish albergue. Me, Wouter, Christina and another person have a room with 4 beds. Yay! There's a communal meal at 8pm, which is cool. I think I'll go even if I can't each because of my stomach. Meal prep started at 5:30pm but there's too many people helping already. I walked to every single bar in town. One of them is where the old men spend their siesta playing dominoes. Just hoping my inflamed stomach de-inflames, so I can eat more and not feel like a penguin.


7 August 2015 Stage 17: Carrión - Terradillos

"She's already the girl with the best laugh on the Camino" -Wouter
Walked 27k today and survived! The albergue here is nice. I'm sharing the washing machine with an Italian woman in our room so it's only 2€ and I get clean clothes! I can add to my pee location list that I peed behind a hay bale.

6 August 2015 Stage 15 & 16 by Taxi: Castrojeriz - Carrión de los Condes

Today me, Helen (Denmark) and a French woman took a Taxi to Carrión de los Condes. The taxi driver was so nice and even stopped in Frómista to show us the 1,000 year old roman church. Upon arriving in Carrión, I had a chamomile tea at the bar then walked to the hostel Santa María which was closed so then I started walking back towards the bar and hostal Espíritu Santo and just ran into Jacquelyne and Timi. We went to Espíritu Santo together. They are very strict here. It is very nice, however, and each room is named after a continent. We are in Africa. We went out to find shorts for Jacquelyne and a grocery store. There was a big and cheap street market with clothes, so she got bike shorts there. There was no fitting area so she just had to change behind a rack of clothes. Camino experience. I spent an hour of my siesta trying to figure out how to edit a contact on my new phone. Finally just asked 2 Spaniards in my room for help. When in doubt, ask a Spaniard.