28 August 2015 Madrid, Calle Iquitos

I went to Calle de Iquitos today! Least touristy place ever. Just suburban apartments, but I was so excited. I'm also quite proud of myself for finding it. I took some pictures for Jaime, Hermico, Ema and Ligia. I hope that one day I can show them the picture.

27 August 2015 Goodbye Camino

Yesterday, me, Steffie, Wouter and his mom and her boyfriend drove to Fisterra (the 'end of the earth,' i.e. the coast). The weather was so bad. It was so hard to say goodbye to everyone. Then, I got so lost walking back from the bus station (Steffi and I took the bus back from Fisterra). I was just sprinting around some residential area in the rain with the flu. I asked some woman (the only one I'd seen) where the cathedral was. Probably the mix of rain, tears, and congestion helped, but she was so nice and took me under her umbrella and walked me to where I could see it. By the time I got to my albergue it was 7:45pm.
Today, I flew from Santiago to Madrid and it was a much smoother day than yesterday. I am so happy with my hotel. Wow it is so great. I miss my camilia though (Camilia = a blend of camino + familia).

25 August 2015 Santiago

Compostelas at 8am. Pilgrim mass at 12. Botefumeiro was really cool. Gahhh I'm so sick :(.

24 August 2014 Stage 33: O'Pedrouzo - Santiago

Santiago!!! I made it to Santiago. Had a busy afternoon shopping and then went out to dinner and it's 10:40pm and I haven't even showered. Feeling a little lost with no more yellow arrows, but excited for all to come.

Morning break (11k to go)

Monte de Gozo (5k to go)

0.5k to go

0k to go

23 August 2015 Stage 32: Ribadiso - O'Pedrouzo

Just one more day left! 19k! I'm actually so impressed, proud, and surprised that I've made it this far. And never did I think I would be eating omelettes and hamburgers (things I used to hate). There are so many turegrinos now that is really hard not to be bitter and annoyed (turegrinos = turista + peregrino, the Spanish words for tourist and pilgrim). I respect and admire that they are spending their vacation walking, but it just changes the whole vibe of the Camino. Dinner time!! Wow, I just ate a whole Hawaiian pizza, half an order of fries, a coffee flan, then I went to a bakery and ate a bizcocho con crema.

22 August 2015 Stage 31: Palas de Rei - Ribadiso

Too dark to write. Had a nice time playing cards with Marta, Helena (two sisters from Barcelona) and Wouter. I even had a hamburger for dinner!

21 August 2015 Stage 30: Portomarín - Palas de Rei

Kind of a long day, but a nice one other than the tourist pilgrims, which kind of ruin the peace of the Camino.

20 August 2015 Stage 29: Sarria - Portomarín

I just had another Italian pizza! Today was good. I had a very nice cheese omelette for 2nd breakfast. Took some cowfies of course (selfies with cows). There are so many "pilgrims" now. You really have to make reservations because albergues fill up really fast. The municipal ones don't take reservations, but it's ricky to count on them not being full. I think I will miss the Camino when it's over, but I'm also excited to, you know, have toilet paper and less than 10 kilos on my back. Oh my gosh and we saw an ostrich today. I guess some Galician likes ostrich eggs or has a funny pet.

19 August 2015 Stage 28: Triacastela - Sarria

I just had the most amazing food at an Italian restaurant. Pineapple and ham pizza and panna cotta. I am so full I can barely move, but wow it was the best foot I've had in Spain.

18 August 2015 Stage 27: O'Cebreiro - Triacastela

Today was so lovely. Steffi and I slept till 7 and then ate breakfast in bed. Leaving O'Cebreiro was amazing because the clouds were in all the valleys. The mountain tops looked like islands in the sky. I didn't realize that Gallego is also spelled different than Spanish! It kind of sounds like a mix of Italian and Spanish. I practiced saying Fröhliche Weihnachten in German all day. We made pesto pasta for dinner. And now I can put on my Spanish sweatsuit which I love. Did I mention how much I love my sweatsuit? Camino Quote (me to Steffi while I was walking and trying to think of Santa's reindeer): "You know it's a good day when you can remember all your reindeer" (Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Donner, Blitzen, and Rudolph).

17 August 2015 Stage 26: Villafranca - O'Cebriero

Me, Wouter, Timi and Steffi walked together, but then I was walking ahead and somehow got really far ahead. I stopped at a truck stop gas station to pee and thought they'd passed when I was inside, so I started walking really fast and then stopped in Ambas Mesetas. I asked Carlos, who was sitting at the café there, if Timi had passed by him and he said no. Then I was really really confused. I waited there for a while and then Steffi came and told me Wouter was sick so he and Timi stopped walking. Steffi and I kept walking and in Herrerías decided to do the horse ride to O'Cebriero. It was us and the Canadian couple. My horse was named Morita. She was very nice but really wanted to snack. Riding a horse with a backpacking backpack on was interesting. And wow does my butt hurt! I am glad I rode the horses, but I am definitely still not great with horses. I got more comfortable as we went on, but it was still stressful. The views were beautiful though. Steffi and I have a hostel here. We went to the store and just bought random things and ate in our room. Now we're eating cookies in bed. We have the cutest little windows, which I think Jacquelyne would like.

16 August 2015 Stage 25: Ponferrada - Villafranca

Today we met up again with Timi! Me, Steffi, and Timi walked together. We stopped for so many breaks. We stopped at one albergue in Pieros for crepes and smoothies. When we arrived in Villafranca, there was Wouter! We settled in to the albergue and then went to dinner. I had an entire hawaiian pizza with no tomato sauce and it was great. The others got menú del día, so Wouter gave me his ice cake. I also learned from Steffi that the proper word for little pieces of paper in German is Schnipsel (NOT schnidel).

15 August 2015 Stage 24.5: Ponferrada Rest Day

Slept till 11:07! Greatest rest day ever. Only downside was that all stores were closed because of Asunción. Spain has a holiday or party at least 3 times a week.

14 August 2015 Stage 24: Rabanal - Molinaseca - Ponferrada

Today was freezing cold windy rainy etc. It felt like clouds were blowing in my face. Wouter and I took like 6 breaks. We met up with Stephanie at one of our breaks. My stomach was bad again so they were so nice and for the the last part Stephanie carried my bag and Wouter carried her bag. We made it to Molinaseca and were going to stay in a hostel there, but there was going to be a huge party and no doctor the next day because of the party, so we took a taxi to Ponferrada. The 3 of us are staying at Hostal San Miguel. I went shopping!!! The closest stores to here were like actual sporty clothes not hiking clothes. I bought a sweatsuit from one store and a sports bra from another. We then did laundry at a self-service laundry place. Longest 31 minutes. Haha we literally just sat there watching our clothes wash. I learned that I can run up 3 flights of stairs and not be out of breath.

Foncebadón

Foncebabear

Cruz de Ferro 

Manjarín (that's basically the whole town) 

Wouter with his new friend in Manjarín

13 August 2015 Stage 23: Astorga - Rabanal

It's cold. I'm tired. My stomach is upset again. On the bright side, Wouter and I cooked! Pasta with pesto and green onion and red pepper. I still can't believe that yesterday 3 different people didn't think I was American. American lady thought I was Spanish, even after I spoke Standard American English to her. A German in the kitchen thought I was German because I sounded like a German who'd studied for a year in America. Then, the woman from Denmark with an Aussie accent, Tanya, said the first 30 seconds I spoke she didn't think I was fluent. Haha also last night was hilarious when Deb, Aussie woman, was trying to tell this Frenchman that his food wasn't done because the eggs were too liquidy. She did this hilarious wiggle dance to explain. Today was beautiful rainbow day! The first 3 hours was just walking right towards the most beautiful complete rainbow I'd ever seen.

12 August 2015 Stage 22: San Martín - Astorga

Astorga has an amazing Gaudí palace. It looks like an oil pastel painting or something. Another shitty day of walking but it ended well. The albergue had soap next to the wash basins AND the water pressure in the shower AND amazing 15€ massage. Wouter walked 50k today! Wow. I can't believe it. I miss Jacquelyne who had to stop in León. I think I've learned that I need silliness in my day.

11 August 2015 Stage 21: León - San Martín

The walk today was bleh. First suburbs of León, then along the highway the whole way. Never in my life did I think I'd walk next to a highway all day. I'm staying at an albergue in San Martín called Vieira. Helen, Hannah, and Bianca are also here. There's a swimming pool!!! After swimming and hanging out with Hannah and Bianca, I had lunch. It was absolutely amazing. Lentil soup, bread, salad (with actually fresh lettuce and veggies), and pork with potatoes & grilled zucchini. I didn't really like the pork, but I think that's just because I was full and I don't really like pork. Today I learned how nice it is just to eat and not do other things while you eat. I brought my phone, guidebook, and journal with me to lunch and then realized how nice it was just to do nothing other than sit and eat as slowly as you want and look at the view (of the high way N-120, because guess what? The hostel is on the side of the highway I spent the day walking along :) ). I miss Jacquelyne, Timi, and Wouter, because I can be so silly with them. I'm exhausted from getting up so early everyday, so I'm going to rest now.

10 August 2015 Stage 20: Mansilla de las Mulas - León

Walked to León today. In the morning, me, Timi, Jacquelyne, and Wouter made up nicknames. Timi is Camino Whisperer. Jacquelyne is Yogi. I am Apple. Wouter is Speedy GonHolland. Later we started walking with Guido, Helen, and Zoltan (a Hungarian we just met). We are staying in an awesome hostel. It is actually only open in summer because it is the university dorms for Miguel de Unamuno. Me, Jacquelyne, and Wouter have a triple with a bathroom! We went out for a nice lunch. The cathedral here is gorgeous. I think I like León better than Pamplona and Burgos. Also, wow sunscreen is so freaking expensive in Spain. For being such a sunny country you'd think that it would have reasonably priced sunscreen.

9 August 2015 Stage 19: Bencianos - Mansilla de las Mulas

Last night at the communal dinner the hospitalera asked for a translator to English, French, and Italian. I volunteered to translate to English. The first part was just about how the dinner was thanks to yesterday's pilgrims' donations. The second part was about how we are going to bless the meal with a rap song. Then we did the 'we will rock you' rhythm on the tables and did a rap blessing!
Today was very monotonous but very nice. I am in a room with Jacquelyne, Timi, Wouter, and a person from Slovenia and someone from Spain. We are all so silly. Sometimes living in tight quarters can have its perks, i.e. laughter is twice as contagious. I had dinner for the first time in 6 days! Oats with milk and bread with pesto.

8 August 2015 Stage 18: Terradillos - Bencianos

Early 5:30 departure from Terradillos, but a lovely walk in the dark. We stopped in Sahagún and found a café and supermarket. The aisles in the supermarket in Spain are so narrow and it is so crowded, so 5 of us walking around with backpacks on was a scene. We decided to walk along the main road towards Bencianos and El Burgo Ranero (instead of the alternative route). We are staying in Bencianos at the parish albergue. Me, Wouter, Christina and another person have a room with 4 beds. Yay! There's a communal meal at 8pm, which is cool. I think I'll go even if I can't each because of my stomach. Meal prep started at 5:30pm but there's too many people helping already. I walked to every single bar in town. One of them is where the old men spend their siesta playing dominoes. Just hoping my inflamed stomach de-inflames, so I can eat more and not feel like a penguin.

7 August 2015 Stage 17: Carrión - Terradillos

"She's already the girl with the best laugh on the Camino" -Wouter
Walked 27k today and survived! The albergue here is nice. I'm sharing the washing machine with an Italian woman in our room so it's only 2€ and I get clean clothes! I can add to my pee location list that I peed behind a hay bale.

6 August 2015 Stage 15 & 16 by Taxi: Castrojeriz - Carrión de los Condes

Today me, Helen (Denmark) and a French woman took a Taxi to Carrión de los Condes. The taxi driver was so nice and even stopped in Frómista to show us the 1,000 year old roman church. Upon arriving in Carrión, I had a chamomile tea at the bar then walked to the hostel Santa María which was closed so then I started walking back towards the bar and hostal Espíritu Santo and just ran into Jacquelyne and Timi. We went to Espíritu Santo together. They are very strict here. It is very nice, however, and each room is named after a continent. We are in Africa. We went out to find shorts for Jacquelyne and a grocery store. There was a big and cheap street market with clothes, so she got bike shorts there. There was no fitting area so she just had to change behind a rack of clothes. Camino experience. I spent an hour of my siesta trying to figure out how to edit a contact on my new phone. Finally just asked 2 Spaniards in my room for help. When in doubt, ask a Spaniard.

5 August 2015 Stage 14.5: Sick Day in Castrojeriz

Right now I'm "hanging out" in Hospital de la Alma (hospital of the soul). The hospitalero at my albergue last night who woke me up at 6:40am and kicked me out at 8am (rules are rules though, I understand) said that 3 minutes up the road was this house/place I could sit for the day. It is really cool and bizarre in here. The man who lives here looks like a movie character: white pants, long sleeve black shirt, beard, long braided hair. The house is awesome: incense, interesting changing music, weird things hanging all over the walls. There are really nice photographs with captions that I think the man took. There is a back garden that backs up into a mountain and there are 3 little caves and these little ladders going up the side of the mountain. I think Jesse Larson would love it here. It's "un espacio de silencio" (silent space) and I'm trying to eat saltine crackers silently and without making crumbs. That's nearly impossible. I can hear the clip clop of pilgrims walking past. I did find the bathroom here. I kind of need a hospital of the body, but hey I guess I'll take a hospital of the soul. Maybe if i hadn't gotten sick I would never have seen this place. I'm going to try to take a bus to Frómista at 6pm. That way I won't be behind a day and I can still be with Jacquelyne and Timi and the crew of Kevin, Inés, Antonia, Tatiana, Charlotte and Tristan who are all so nice and were so helpful when I was sick. I've never seen so many weird mirrors, lamps, plants, and furniture as in this house. Outside there's a little table and chair where one can paint bones. I think I'll go make myself some tea in the tea room that says serve yourself. Nevermind all the tea is caffeinated which I don't think my stomach will appreciate. I'm going to walk into the plaza and hopefully find more saltines and a telephone. Well, I think my only bathroom option might be the doctor's office lobby. There's basically just a crappy looking bar that I don't want anything from. I am literally sitting in the doctor's office solely to use the bathroom. I have to explain to each person who walks in that I am not in line for the doctor. To see the doctor here you literally just go knock on his door. So weird. Staying at the municipal albergue tonight in Catrojeriz. Will take taxi to Carrión de los Condes tomorrow. Too sick to take the bus tonight. This very nice older Spanish woman decided she needed to show me all 200 or so really mediocre photos (and blab about them) of her past 3 days on the Camino. She was nice, but I was just like oh my gosh yes I literally just walked all of that and I'm sick. And she was obsessed with how attractive she thinks her boyfriend is. I was just like ugh I barely understand you and I feel like crap, but you are well-meaning so I shouldn't be annoyed.

Plaza with my electrolyte drink... 

...to doctor's office for bathroom...

... to albergue

4 August 2015 Stage 14: Hornillos - Castrojeriz

I made is 11k from Hornillos to Hontanas, but my stomach hurt way too badly to continue. Timi, Jacquelyne, and I took a taxi (which was a super fancy Audi) the remaining 10k to the clinic in Castrojeriz. It was about 10am but the doctor doesn't com till 11am, so I just waited there with our bags while Jacquelyne and Timi went albergue hunting. The doctor saw me right at 11am and apparently I have gastritis. I have some medication now. Also funny was that the moment I walked out of the doctor's office I started feeling awful again. I went to the bathroom and then called for Jacquelyne because I was feeling so ill. I was on the bathroom floor not sounding so great and the locals in the lobby were so concerned that they went and got the doctor, who told me ever so kindly using the vosotros command form 'vomite un poco' (throw up a little bit). That would never happen in the US. I'm settled into an albergue now. Hopefully I heal quickly.

Sunrise

Sunset

3 August 2015 Stage 13: Burgos - Hornillos del Camino

First day of meseta (desert plateau). Something is wrong with my stomach, so I'll write more later, hopefully when I'm feeling better.

2 August 2015 Stage 12: Agés - Burgos

Tiger balm patches rock! First day in 2 weeks without shin splint pain. On our walk the sunrise was beautiful walking into Atapuerca (where the earliest human remains in Europe were found). Also, there was this barbed wire fence that was hilarious. It looked like someone just tried to make it look like silly string. Aleka and I made it to Burgos. I'm staying in the albergue above a church with 16 beds. Lucy, Jacquelyne, Timi, and Bianca are also here. Apparently the camino is much more crowded from now on, so it will be even earlier mornings from now on.

1 August 2015 Stage 11: Belorado - Agés

Walked with Aleka and Ani (from Hungary) today. Ani stayed in San Juan. Aleka and I went on to Agés. I love our hostal. I had spaghetti and ice cream for dinner. It's dark now and I can't see the page.